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As a trainer and clinician I am always being asked a variety of horse-related questions. I think the single most common one asked, however, is “what kind of bit should I use on my horse?”
In my situation, if I need to do any training on the horse whatsoever, I use a simple full-cheek snaffle bit. If the horse is well-trained and responsive, he stops, backs, and neck reins all on a light cue, then I use a curb or grazing bit. These are the only types of bits that I use on a regular basis, and are the only ones that I feel comfortable recommending.
There is one bit that I never recommend, however, and in fact do my best to try to talk people out of using, particularly if they are experiencing problems with their horses – problems such as unresponsiveness while stopping, backing, or turning, or even more severe problems like head tossing, shaking their heads, or rearing. The bit that I am talking about, and which is often the source of such problems, is the Tom Thumb snaffle.
Below, shown from left to right are a full cheek snaffle bit, the Tom Thumb bit, and a grazing type curb bit with a leather curb strap.
TRANSITION BIT
The Tom Thumb snaffle was originally designed as a transition bit that was to be used in Western training. When a green horse was far enough along that perhaps a training snaffle was no longer necessary, but not far enough along to be moved into a curb bit, the Tom Thumb would be used. This would be great, if in fact, it made the transition simple and easy. Unfortunately, it doesn’t. The truth of the matter is that, due to its design, it could possibly be considered one of the worst bits that somebody could use at a highly critical time in a young horse’s training.
The Tom Thumb is commonly termed a snaffle bit because its mouthpiece is broken, or hinged, which is a trademark common to the true snaffle bits. That is where the similarities end. On a true snaffle bit, the reins are attached to a relatively small, swiveling ring which could be considered a working part of the mouthpiece itself. When the rein is pulled, as you would do when asking the horse to turn, the ring that the rein is attached to moves completely away from the horse’s mouth. The mouthpiece itself slides in the same direction, which causes the ring on the opposite side of the horse’s mouth to apply pressure on that side. Because the horse is taught to go away from pressure, it then makes sense that if you are pulling to the left, and thre pressure from the bit is on the right side of his mouth, he will naturally turn his head to the left. This is the simple principle that is commonly referred to as direct reining, or “plow reining”. It is also a principle that is almost impossible to perform properly with the Tom Thumb, due to its design.
SHANKS PROHIBIT DIRECT REINING
Unlike a true snaffle bit, the Tom Thumb has shanks similar to the ones found on a solid curb bit. It is to the bottom of these shanks that the reins are attached. The headstall is attached to the top of the shank, as is some type of curb strap which fits around the bottom of the horse’s jaw, in the chin area. These shanks swivel and are attached to the bit’s mouthpiece.
It is that one flaw in the bit’s design that renders it almost totally useless when it comes to any kind of training which involves direct reining. Again, using direct reining in a snaffle bit, the horse is taught to move away from pressure. To turn to the right, the pressure is on the left side of the horse’s mouth. To turn to the left, the pressure is on the right. There should be no other pressure being applied by the bit that could cause the horse to become confused.
Unfortunately, confusion is precisely what happens to a horse when the Tom Thumb is used. Because of its shanks, any attempt at direct reining results in pressure on several different areas around the horse’s mouth. For instance, if you are asking the horse to turn to the left, you will be pulling on the left rein, with the idea that the pressure from the bit will be on the right side of the horse’s mouth, thereby turning the horse left. However, because the rein is attached to the bottom of a swiveling shank, pulling on the rein results in the shank turning and tipping into the left side of the horse’s face. When the shank tips, it also shifts the mouthpiece, which, in turn, puts pressure on the right side of the horse’s mouth by pulling the right side of the bit into it. You now have pressure on both sides of the horse’s mouth, as well as a shifting of the mouthpiece inside the mouth.
If this wasn’t bad enough, tipping the shank also results in the tightening up of the curb strap that is under the horse’s chin. Suddenly, the simple act of asking the horse to turn to the left is no longer a simple act. The bit is applying so much pressure in so many places, that the horse has no clue as to what you were asking for in the first place.
He then tries to tell you that he doesn’t understand what you want by twisting his neck and shaking his head. Of course, we look at this as him being belligerent and not wanting to do what he was told. So, we simply apply more pressure to the rein which resluts in an even bigger fight on his part.
Eventually, the horse does finally turn to the left – but only as a last resort. Before he does, he will first try several different options. Among these will be: 1) turning to the right, because the left shank tipping into the side of his face is forcing him that way; 2) lifting his head as high as he can get it; 3) dropping his head as low as he can get it; 4) backing up. Rearing is also an option which sometimes happens as well.
The rider is beginning to pick up the left rein in this picture.
Even though there is still slack in the rein, you can see the left shank of the bit is beginning to put downward pressure on the headstall (which transfers to pressure over the poll of the horse). The left shank is also beginning to pivot on the hinge in the bit, indenting the horses face just below the cheek teeth. The curb strap is already fairly tight on the left side, even with this slight pressure on the rein. The mouthpiece is beginning to create a “V” inside the horse’s mouth as the joint in the center of the bit begins to collapse.
This picture shows a horse’s typical response to a simple request to back up when using the Tom Thumb bit.
The left shank of the bit has turned into the horse’s face, and the curb strap has tightened. The horse is opening his mouth in confusion, and in an attempt to eliminate the pressure.
CONFUSION IN STOPPING AND NECK REINING
Asking the horse to stop or back up, using a Tom Thumb, often results in much the same behavior. The reson for this is, again, the bit’s design. Pulling back on the reins causes the hinged mouthpiece of the bit to collapse and jut foreward and then downward inside the horse’s mouth, putting pressure on the horse’s tongue. At the same time, the bottoms of the shanks (where the reins are attached) tip backward, causing the top of the shanks to tip forward. This, in turn, causes the curb strap to tighten under the horse’s chin. Again, pressure is being applied in several different areas and this results in total confusion for the horse.
Neck reining with the Tom Thumb can also result in confusion on the horse’s part. This is because the idea behind neck reining is to be able to turn the horse by applying light pressure on his neck from the rein. To turn to the right, the rein is laid on the left side of the horse’s neck. To turn to the left, the rein is on the right side of his neck. When done properly, there should be no movement or involvement whatsoever on the part of the bit. The solid curb bit, because of its design, lends itself very well to the act of neck reining. When laying the rein on the horse’s neck to turn him, even if slightly heavy pressure is being applied, the curb bit usually will not move in the horse’s mouth. This helps to eliminate the possibility of mixed signals which could confuse the horse.
However, because the Tom Thumb has so many moving parts, even the lightest pressure during neck reining with it often results in the shifting of the bit. Again, the shanks tip and turn causing the curb strap to tighten, the mouthpiece to collapse and the horse to become confused. The horse usually responds by raising his head and tipping it to the outside, or in the opposite direction that you want him to turn. Our response is usually to grab the reins with both hands and direct rein the horse back in the direction we want him to go. Of course this begins the series of problems that I mentioned earlier, head shaking, head tossing, and almost total unresponsiveness to anything we ask the horse to do.
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF PROBLEM BEHAVIOR
In just about every case, when I’ve been asked to help someone overcome an unresponsiveness problem in their horse, the problem has usually stemmed from the use of a Tom Thumb snaffle, or some other type of long-shanked snaffle bit. However, that is not always the only cause of the problem. Very often the use of one of these bits is coupled with the person’s inexperience in working with problem horses in general, and is made worse by their inabiliity to recognize that a problem even exists. Many times they dismiss the head tossing, and lack of responsiveness that accompanies the use of one of these bits as the horse being grumpy or belligerent. Therefore, any time the horse begins to “act up” they simply get a little move heavy-handed with him, forcing him to do what is wanted, instead of looking for what has caused the problem to begin with. Usually, this only serves to intensify the problem.
This picture is a full cheek snaffle bit. The rider is beginning to pick up the left rein.
The bit is swivelling out and away from the horse’s face, while the mouthpiece remains stationary in the horse’s mouth.
THis picture shows the same situation as above, from the right side.
The full cheek bit has slid very slightly through the horse’s mouth (to the left), and the full cheek portion of the bit is beginning to lay along the horse’s face on the right side, giving a clear signal asking the horse to move his head away from the pressure on the right side of his face by moving his head to the left.
It is not meant to imply that the use of one of these bits is the only cause of unresponsive behavior in horses, or that the Tom Thumb is the only type of bit that will cause it. After all, any kind of bit in the hands of a unknowing or uncaring rider can easily be transformed into a weapon. What is true is that this particular style of bit has been the cause of more problem behavior than any other I have seen and is definitely not one I would recommend using – especially for the inexperienced horse person.
If you are currently using a Tom Thumb snaffle or any other type of similar bit and you are happy with the way your horse is responding, then by all means, don’t switch it. If however, you are experiencing some or all of the problems I have mentioned and are currently using – or are thinking about trying – a Tom Thumb, then you may want to reconsider its use.
As with any type of problem behavior concerning horses, it is very important to know and understand what your personal limitations are in dealing with them. Someone with limited training experience should always seek help from an experienced professional. Well-meaning but unknowing friends trying to give free advice often only serve to compound the problem. It is also important to remember that, when it comes to bits, the simpler it is for the rider to use, the simpler it is for the horse to understand. A clear cue on our part makes for a clear response on the horse’s part.
Mark Rashid
Considering the Horse: Tales of Problems Solved and Lessons Learned
Once you have purchased your horse, probably the single most expensive piece of equipment that you will buy is a saddle. That fact alone is reason enough to choose carefully when selecting a saddle, although it’s not the only reason, as you’ll see later.
This article is not meant to tell you which saddle to buy, but to point out some of the factors you should consider when making your own decision.
Which Style?
The first thing to decide is which style of saddle you need. Often the sport in which you participate will dictate your choice of saddle. Dressage, show jumping, western pleasure and saddleseat classes all require very distinctive styles of saddle.
In my Saddle Facts article, you’ll find information about the different styles of both english and western saddles and the activities for which they are best suited.
However, the choice may not always be so simple. For example, riders who enjoy riding their horses around the trails may do so in either a general purpose english saddle or a western trail saddle. In cases like this, you have to consider what else you like to do. If you mainly trail ride, but like to feel the exhilaration of jumping over fallen logs you meet on the way, you might decide to choose a general purpose english saddle.
When selecting a saddle for my Percheron mare I ended up choosing a western trail saddle, even though I usually ride english. The reasons I selected this saddle included the fact that I don’t foresee jumping with this mare, and that Frank has stated he wouldn’t be seen dead in an english saddle. Add the fact that I was able to find a western saddle with a extra-wide gullet to fit this draft mare and the choice was made.
Other choices not mentioned above are Australian saddles, which come in a western-type with a horn and also a version without a horn. They are popular with pleasure and endurance riders. Speaking of endurance riders, there are specially designed endurance saddles available, built for comfort on long-distance rides.
Leather or Synthetic?
Horse owners are almost spoiled for choice these days. When synthetic saddles were first introduced, they were covered in a nylon fabric and often came in bright colors which meant that they weren’t acceptable for showing. Now they are made of synthetic leather and suede materials and look like traditional saddles. Other advantages to synthetic saddles are that they are very lightweight and also easy to clean. They are available in a wide choice of styles, both english and western. You can still get synthetic saddles in snazzy colors if you wish.
Leather is the traditional material from which saddles are made. However, not all leather is created equal and the saddle that might seem like a bargain may turn out to be made of poor quality, imported materials. Always look for good quality leather and pay attention to the finish, the stitching and the fittings such as billet straps. Buy the best quality you can afford, look after it well and it will last for many years.
Fit the Horse, Fit the Rider
A saddle that doesn’t fit your horse properly can give rise to all sorts of training and health problems. A saddle that doesn’t fit you properly will be uncomfortable to ride in and will throw you out of position.
The main feature of the saddle which dictates whether it will fit your horse or not is the width of the gullet. All horses’ backs are not created equal, ranging from the prominent withers of the Thoroughbred to the rounded, mutton withers often seen in Arabians and Quarter Horses. If the saddle you choose has a gullet that is too wide, the saddle will press down on the withers. If the gullet is too narrow, the saddle will pinch.
Other points to consider are the balance of the saddle when it is on the horse, are the pommel and cantle level, or does the saddle tip backward or forward. A saddle that doesn’t sit level will create uncomfortable pressure for your horse, as well as making it difficult for you to maintain your position.
As well as fitting the horse, it’s important that the saddle fit the rider. A saddle that is too small will cause discomfort as you bump against the pommel at every stride (believe me, I’ve been there) A saddle that is too large will have you swimming around trying to maintain your position. Ideally you should be able to place your flat hand between you and the cantle when seated in the lowest part of the seat.
New or Used?
If you are just getting started in the horse world, and trying to keep expenses down, you might wish to consider a used saddle. Used saddles have the advantage of not needing a “break-in” period and the leather, provided it has been well maintained, will already be soft, supple and ready for use.
Article written by: Jayne Pedigo
Your saddle affects the way you ride and the way your horse performs. Learn how to evaluate this very basic piece of riding equipment.
By Stacey Nedrow-Wigmore
At the risk of sounding like a school-kid returning to class in the fall, I must say that I went to camp this summer. No, not to learn canoeing, nature crafts, or even dressage. I went to “saddle camp.” For the better part of a week, our group of eight, made up of professional saddle-fitters, tack-shop owners, riders, an insurance agent, a college professor and an assistant editor–me–bent over carpet-covered workbenches in a classroom at the Potomac Horse Center in Gaithersburg, Maryland. We used assorted-sized metal “flocking irons” and wooden “smashers” to push and shape soft wool into saddle panels, while our instructor, saddler David Young of Raleigh, North Carolina, looked on. “Put the flocking in there as light and fluffy as possible,” he told us. “Don’t let it ball up.” We heeded his word and worked intently, knowing an intensive five-part practical test and written exam loomed at week’s end.
Related Resources
Saddle Flaps – Padded Vs. Plain
Dressage Saddle Fit Importance
Tack & Equipment Archives
The course, sponsored by the Master Saddlers Association (MSA), was an education in equine anatomy and saddle fitting. As I realized at the time I enrolled in the course, it’s impossible to teach or to learn everything there is to know about these subjects in just five days. But you can take people who already know something about horses and saddle fitting, teach them the basics of what they don’t know and give them guidelines for standard saddle-fitting procedures. Going into the course, I knew I was the least experienced member of our group. But I really applied myself, soaking up every bit of information I could, and I passed the final exam–a major accomplishment in my book.
Of all the valuable lessons I learned during saddle camp, the nine points of saddle fitting is the one that I most want to share because it’s information that every rider can use. I’m also going to outline some of the details of my final exam to give you an idea of what goes into the education of a saddle-fitter.
Nine Fundamental Points
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Point 1: Saddle Position
To begin our evaluation, Freeze emphasizes the importance of ensuring that the horse each of us is examining is standing squarely on level ground. I check my horse’s stance, then I proceed to place the saddle correctly without using a pad: I lay the saddle on the horse’s back, slightly forward on the withers. I put my left hand on the horse’s neck, just in front of the withers. Then I grab the saddle by the pommel with my right hand and I give it a sharp tug back and down. The saddle “locks in” when it is in the correct position. I repeat the process; the saddle stops in the same place each time.
Point 2: Level Seat
With the saddle correctly placed on the horse’s back–and the horse still standing squarely–Freeze now instructs us to look at the lowest point of the seat, which, in most cases, is centered between the pommel (the front of the saddle) and the cantle (the back of the saddle) as well as level. This is the ideal position because it allows a rider to sit comfortably and effectively deliver seat and leg aids without putting undo pressure on the horse’s back.
Point 3: Pommel-to-Cantle Relationship
A dressage saddle’s cantle is higher than the pommel by virtue of its design, which takes into account the amount of sitting a dressage rider does. For comfort, the cantle conforms to the anatomy of a rider’s seat. If, however, the saddle is sitting slightly low behind–and as long as the saddle tree is not too narrow–a saddle fitter may be ale to add flocking to the back of the panel to raise the cantle.
Point 4: Clearance under the Pommel To evaluate pommel clearance when no rider is in the saddle, Freeze now instructs us to first hold one of our hands perpendicular to the ground then to slide it into the space between the pommel and the horse’s withers. As a very general rule, two and one half to three fingers should fit into the space without feeling cramped or pinched. Assuming that the tree fits, if there isn’t sufficient room, a saddle fitter may be able to add flocking to raise and/or balance the saddle to ensure that it clear the horse’s withers.
Point 5: Point Angles
The points of the saddle tree determine the saddle’s width, and this is probably the most important aspect of evaluating a saddle’s suitability for a particular horse. When the width of the tree is not correct for a horse, the saddle does not fit.
Point 6: Panel Pressure
Now Freeze shows us how pply some pressure to simulate having a rto place one hand on the saddle and aider sit in the saddle. I place the palm of my other hand away from the horse. Then I run it from top to bottom under the points, checking for consistent pressure throughout. Next, I move my hand from front to back under the length of the panel, feeling for any pressure points or bridging–gap where the saddle does not touch the horse. Freeze emphasizes the importance of checking both sides of the saddle, since the majority of horses are not built exactly the same way on each side. Correcting pressure points or bridging requires adjusting the flocking.
Point 7: Gullet Clearance
For this part of the evaluation, I position myself near the horse’s hindquarters so I can look down the gullet–the open space between the panels–from the rear. Ideally, the gullet clears the entire length of the horse’s spine and does not touch the connective tissue on either side. Now I reach forward and push down on the cantle and I inspect the same area. As Freeze explains, sometimes when a horse is asymmetrical and weight is added to the saddle, it will shift and rest on the spine or the connective tissue, which is painful for the horse. This situation can be alleviated by adding flocking, changing how the saddle is girthed, and/or by adding a balance strap–an extra billet–to help keep the saddle from shifting when the horse is ridden.
Point 8: Length of the Saddle
The weight-bearing surface of a saddle should be between the horse’s wither area and the point where the last rib meets the spine. To find this point (technically known as T18), Freeze shows us how to locate the last rib and follow it with our fingers as far as we can. He explains that it may be hard to feel once we get up into the horse’s back-muscle area. If the saddle sits too far back beyond this point, it will rest on the lumbar region–the weakest part of a horse’s back–where it can cause njury, because the lumbar region cannot support a rider’s weight.
Point 9: Horse’s Response
During her anatomy presentation on our first day of the course, Harman had told us “the horse never lies.” He will tell you whether he is comfortable by his movements and actions. This is the acid test of saddle fitting.
Final Exams
After almost a week of nonstop classes and hands-on work, we were ready for the five-part testing process. To begin, each student was presented with a horse and his saddle. Jan Cross, the owner of Justy, a 17-year-old Arabian gelding who was my test horse, brought him out for me to assess. Over the winter, Cross explained, Justy had suffered pituitary and ankle problems and was still in the process of gaining back the several hundred pounds he had lost while he was ill.
Cross searched me out early the next morning to say how much better she was able to hold her position in the saddle as a result of my efforts. For the first time in a long while, Justy had given her some good lateral work, she said, and he seemed happy about it.
In the end, I was one of five “campers” who made the grade by passing all of the tests. However, I’m not planning to hang out my saddle-fitter’s shingle just yet. I’m at least a year of practice and apprenticing away from feeling comfortable enough to do that. Besides, I have too many stories to write. Even now, I can hear my editor calling.
The Master Saddlers Association (MSA) was started this year by Gene Freeze of County Saddlery in Woodbine, Maryland. Freeze is the only person in the United States registered as a saddle fitter by England’s Society of Master Saddlers (SMS). He started the U.S. program because of what he sees as a lack of qualified professional saddle fitters.
The mission of MSA is to educate horse owners and riders about proper saddle fit, to protect the well-being of the horse, and to set professional standards for saddle fitters. MSA is based on the principles of SMS and includes a professional code of conduct and standardized guidelines for certified saddle fitters to follow. The organization plans to run certification courses for all levels several times a year.
To locate a certified saddle fitter in your area or to find out about becoming certified, call MSA at (301) 570-3100.
Stacey Nedrow-Wigmore is a life-long horseperson and assistant editor for Dressage Today magazine. Her article won a first place award for service to the reader in the recent American Horse Publications contest.
Horses who spend the majority of their days in pasture usually find little to get excited about in the great outdoors, but when turnout time is only a brief or occasional treat, the freedom is such a thrill that the associated horseplay can get rough. Boots can help protect a horse’s legs from knocks and blows during limited periods of turnout, but when choosing leg wear consider the following factors:
Use turnout boots with easy-off closures. A boot that is strapped securely to a leg may loosen and slide, posing a tripping hazard, rather than coming off completely. Select turnout boots that have simple Velcro-type closures, and avoid those with buckles, elaborate fastening systems and heavy-duty hardware.
© Susan Sexton
Go cheap. Since “losability” is a safety factor, you’re bound to kiss a few boots goodbye every season. By choosing less expensive turnout boots, you’ll suffer less financial frustration.
Remove boots after turn-out. Remove turnout boots once horses are brought back inside. Burrs, dirt and other irritants can become lodged under boots, and cause major discomfort if not discovered.
Clean turnout boots often. Caked-on grime weakens materials, shortens boot life and irritates the horse’s skin. At least weekly and more frequently in muddy weather, hose off synthetic boots and clean and condition any leather components.
Avoid bandages. An unwinding leg wrap on a moving horse is an invitation to disaster. Do not turn out a horse in wraps unless he’ll be under constant surveillance in a small paddock.
With the long, cold days of winter here, we are all bundled up when we leave the house. Especially when riding. It doesn’t take a thermostat to tell us when our bodies are cold or when we need another layer or two to keep warm. But what about our horses? They can’t tell us that they are cold. We have come up with a few tips to help decide what the horses should be wearing.
When the sun is shining and warm, above 60 °, everyone should be okay. No blankets or sheets needed.
50 – 60°: A clipped horse may need a sheet, possibly even with a light liner. Non-clipped horses may want a sheet as well. Especially if the wind is a factor.
40 – 50°: Clipped horses need a medium weight insulated blanket. Non-clipped horses should have at least a sheet and possibly a liner.
30 – 40°: Now is when the clipped horses should be getting into their heavier blankets. The non-clipped horses are into the medium weight insulated blankets.
20 – 30°: It’s beginning to get a bit colder now! Clipped horses need their heavy blankets again, and now the liners should be added. Non-clipped horses need their heavy blankets as well, but liner can be optional.
Below 20°: Brrrrrr! Everyone needs their heavy blankets with liners. If you have polar fleece, they will love you for it!
Blanket Care: We all should be well aware how bacteria and winter blankets go hand in hand. These bacteria can lead to skin infections and irratations. Please do whatever you can to keep your horses blankets clean and dry. On warmer days, remove the blankets, turn them inside out and take a stiff brush or broom to them to get the loose dirt out. Lay them over a fence in the sun to air out and cut down on the fungi growth.
For a fine selection of winter blankets, check out JeffersEquine.com
